The Sun Also Rises in Pamplona

We skipped Pamplona the last time we were in this area. Not this time. I intend to walk my Camino here (from St. Jean Pied de Port or Roncesvalles) sometime in the near future so here I am. Con mi hermana. No running of the bulls — that happens in July. But we’d walk the same bull run route along Calle Estafeta while chasing Ernest (Hemingway, who else?). 

Plaza Del Castillo is a good start. Before the 3rd largest bullring was constructed, bullfights were held aquí! Lovely plaza, adorned by centuries-old buildings including Ernest Hemingway’s favorite haunts. You must be mindful NOT to be distracted on your way here. Many cafes and shops are named Hemingway something, to get your attention. Not surprising, considering that Ernest (yes, we’re on 1st name basis) put Pamplona on the map & within the tourist radar through his novel “The Sun Also Rises”. 

We were hungry after some walking by the time we reached Plaza Del Castillo and spotted Cafe Iruña.  Too early for Spanish dinner (around 9-10pm), we settled for cerveza para mi, zumo de naranja for my coughing hermana. Between us, we tried some tapas. Service was very, very slow. But we stayed longer than necessary without anyone bugging us to up and go. 

The tapas are so so. I’m told the coffee is really good here — and I smelled the pleasant aroma of my fav brew from the next table — but I favored the cerveza de la bodega. Swell! Just what I needed this afternoon. The big bonus of course is finding Hemingway by the bar. I hugged that bronze statue like Ernest & I were longtime friends. Well, in a manner of speaking, we were. I’ve read all his books and keep reading them! Love his simple storytelling style without using big words. Clean, crisp and engaging. Yes, I’m a big fan. So forgive me when I unashamedly hugged Ernest. 

When we trooped to Plaza de Toros de Pamplona, Ernest was there again. Mi hermana was growing tired of my antics by this time, thinking I’m too old and crazy for this behavior. Lol. Without losing a step, we likewise checked out the Ayuntamiento and Parque de Taconera. Plus a church (Santa Saturnina) and a chapel (San Fermin). It’s a Sunday and it’s the Feast Day of St. Joseph — a Happy Father’s Day in Spain — so there were mass services. 

And before calling it a day, I thought I’d let my sister think I finally snapped while walking along Calle Estafeta where the bulls and brave, crazy men run in July. Love teasing her…… 

Buena Noche a todos!

(Got my sister to walk another 15,000 steps . Woo Hoo!) 


About lifeisacelebration

Retired early, but still active. Very involved in celebrating life! I love traveling because I always come back with less cobwebs in my mind. It is as if I empty my mind of all clutter upon departure, and fill it with many happy memories upon arrival. I also like the idea that life is so focused on the present, and my senses are all playing to listen, feel , see, smell and taste everything novel or not so new. The fact that I only have to choose from a limited wardrobe, or use the same pair of shoes throughout my holiday , or work and survive on a single budget make life so much simpler. Sure, you sometimes get a raw deal in a few trips, or feel hassled by flight delays and cancellations, but the joys and simplicity of the present far outweigh the negatives. Oh, btw, I always end up gaining more friends after each trip. Many I kept......
This entry was posted in Europe, Family Travel, Musings and Ramblings, Travel and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

4 Responses to The Sun Also Rises in Pamplona

  1. Looks like you had a great time in Pamplona, and maybe even your hermana did too 🙂
    Love Hemingway’s writing, but not a fan of the man – a chauvinist who liked to kill animals for sport, so we didn’t bother to follow up on any of his haunts in Cuba.
    When are you planning of doing the Camino? I’d love to. One day . . . . .

    • i did 2 days of the camino from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. Quite different, but more peaceful than my last 2 caminos from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela in 2015 and from Viterbo to Rome/Vatican in 2016. I did SJPP to Roncesvalles now , thinking I’d start from Roncesvalles (to Pamplona and beyond) next time. But I’m intrigued about the Napoleon Route from SJPP to Roncesvalles. This passes through Orisson, but weather conditions closed off the Orisson Route and I had to take another (Valcarlos) route, so now I’m curious!

  2. Pingback: Una Vez Más, España  | lifeisacelebration

  3. Pingback: Underrated Sights in Spain | lifeisacelebration

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s