When I first visited this island in 1986, I had 2 adjectives to describe it. Classy. High-end. Sure it was awesome. But judging by the shops and dining places I found then, this is truly some posh island resort. The people on holiday I saw then looked like they just stepped out of some magazine, and traveled in private yachts.
Not anything like the lesser mortals who came by ferry. Like me. 😂
The half hour ferry ride from Sorrento was rough. I had to dull myself to stare out to the sea, dreaming of a caprese salad and ravioli and limoncello. A poor young lad emptied his lunch as soon as we got off. I hope he rested first before taking the bus all the way to Anacapri. The narrow, winding roads render all drivers in Capri as hell-drivers. No one in his right sense would dare drive the way they do. We’ve seen far too many close encounters, as in 4-5 inches apart! Yet no one seems to lose his temper. Quite an adventure. Exactly how I remember island driving here.
Of course you can always hail a cab instead, and be driven in a top down sedan. Cool 👌 And upon reaching the top, you can choose to ride a chairlift to Monte Solaro which is the highest point in the island. I tried this 30 years ago and find it amazing that the chairlifts still work. Surely, not for the faint hearted!
What pleasantly surprised me this time is how Capri has evolved to cater to as many types of tourists — by that, I mean, it’s NOT strictly high-end. There are shops where you won’t faint seeing the price tags, and trattorias where you can get a decent meal for a good price. There are more gelato bars as there are limoncello and ice slush to be found. The island was teeming with tourists when we visited, despite the fact that the Blue Grotto has been closed for 4 days due to rough waters. (Blue Grotto is a cavern where only little boats are allowed in, with passengers lying on their backs as the boatmen paddle the boat through in time with the tide ebbing. Blue because the water inside the cave is magnificently blue, as the only sunlight enters through the cave entrance and some underwater cavity)
The “shopping walk” towards Scala Fenicia passes many scenic viewpoints as well as Villa San Michele, many artisan shops like limoncello boutiques (lemon liquor and lemon candies), handcrafted sandals and perfumeries. It’s easy to waste an hour walking here. But it takes a lot of discipline not to pull out your wallet. We likewise found a nice trattoria for some pizza, ravioli and calamari. Before long, it was time to take the funiculare down to the harbor to catch our 4pm ferry back to Sorrento.
The funiculare brought us down directly to the harbor. There were still holiday makers sailing in, with bags big enough for at least a weekend in this fabulous island. We were blessed with good weather today, despite the rough sail coming in. The half hour ferry ride back to Sorrento was however uneventful. Calm waters, just like the way our souls were soothed by the natural beauty of this island. Ci vediamo, Capri!