San Sebastian. All they said and wrote about you are correct. The seascape. The old town charm. The food!
There were many choices in Parte Vieja alone. It’s a struggle to peel ourselves away from this old town because of the many food finds here. Borda Berri, Zeruko, La Cuchara de San Telmo, Bar Azkena, Restaurante Ezeiza, La Bretxa Mercado, Wimbledon Tennis Club, Restaurante La Cepa and many more!
Borda Berri was crowded like crazy but we managed to squeeze through the crowd and claim a tiny space at the bar. The Salmorejo was so good, so with the bacalhau, tuna-stuffed tomatoes and veal cheeks.
Pulpo anywhere in this northern part of Spain is good but La Cuchara slices them tentacles a different way. Not rounds but sliced or halved lengthwise with paprika sprinklings and doused in good olive oil. Foie Gras here pairs well with the other seafood offerings like vieiras (scallops) and yes, bacalhau a la plancha.
Bar Zeruko has one of the best-looking pintxo spread on its bar. You’d want to try them all! How I wish we had a 2nd shot at Zeruko. As it happened, we were simply too full trying the pintxos from the other bars and tried only a couple. Yet i won’t forget the anggulas (baby eel) here. 😞
And Mercado La Bretxa? Bar Azkena is a gem wedged in between the meat and fruit stalls in the basement here. We had 2 consecutive breakfasts in Bar Azkena, if that’s any indication of how we enjoyed sitting by the “extended” bar counter here. And yes, coffee’s good. So with the txakoli, txakolina or whatever it’s called.
On our way home from the Peine del Viento in Playa de Ondaretta, we chanced upon Wimbledon Tennis Club. Crowded and we weren’t even sure they’re all tennis aficionados. For sure though, the cervezas tasted good here. Plus the atmosphere’s so congenial.
Then there’s this boutique hotel we passed along Playa Ondaretta. It was raining then and we took shelter here as one hotel waiter called for a taxi for us. So nice! You bet we located ourselves back here the next day to have lunch in its restaurante. Just have a look at the chipirones a la plancha and chopitos we ordered here. Very generous portions. Too bad they weren’t served with arroz!
The chipirones a la plancha and the chopitos as well as the steak and fries were good. A good find. Just like how we felt when we chanced upon La Cepa in the Old Town. And yes, we had 2 dinners here. Nearly addicted to Pimientos de Padron, we found nuevo favoritos aqui. Pimientos de Guernika. Slightly bigger, chunkier. Yum. We ate very well indeed here in San Sebastian. My, we’ve been lucky despite our disappointment with our rented apartment here 😉
BACK IN MARCH 2017….. so here’s an update:
Went back to La Cuchara de San Telmo as planned. Just that we couldn’t grab a table and had to elbow our way to the bar. The Merluza wrapped in bacon and the Risotto didn’t disappoint!
We also finally tried Atari Gastroteka and the pulpo a la plancha, foie gras with white chocolate and croquetas de bacalao were a dream. Sooooo good.
This time, we went to Casa Urola for dessert. No soufflé but the Torrijas con leche and coffee ice cream was tops. And then there’s Heladeria Arnoldo if you care for Helado or Sorbet.
Now, if you care to sit down for a seafood paella fix and some entrecotê and calamares on the side, go to Restaurante Ubarrechena. As for breakfast, I always go to Bar Azkena in Mercado La Bretxa. This time, we found the Huevos Con Chistorra and Rabo (Oxtail with Mushroom and Pineapple) really yummy. Plus the ubiquitous Jamon Iberico.
But for 2 nights, we checked out La Viña for its cheesecake and Bars Zeruko and Borda Berri for more of the pintxos. All 3 were closed. Boo! 😭😭😭 Good thing we found some delicious tarta de quezo, foie gras, pimientos de padron, sidra, boquerones, and more in Bar Bartolo.
Bar Zeruko was open though on the day we trained back to Madrid, so we had our last hurrah. Also tried Casa Alcalde and Bar Nestor. Esta Bien!